Discover the Valle de los Caídos: History, Memory, and Reflection in the Sierra de Madrid 

Discover the Valle de los Caídos: History, Memory, and Reflection in the Sierra de Madrid 

Just 50 kilometers from the capital stands one of the most imposing and also most controversial monuments of Spain’s recent history: the Valle de los Caídos, officially renamed Valle de Cuelgamuros in 2022. Located in the heart of the Sierra de Guadarrama, this monumental site has long been a point of reflection and debate surrounding the country’s historical memory. Today, it is a key place to understand 20th-century Spanish history. 

Why was the Valle de los Caídos built? 

The monument was commissioned in 1940 by dictator Francisco Franco as a tribute to those who fell during the Spanish Civil War. Beyond being a commemorative site, it was also meant to serve as a mausoleum for Franco himself and as a monastery inhabited by the Orden de San Benito. It was inaugurated in 1959, after almost 20 years of construction, and became one of the most ambitious projects of Francoism. 

It was built using the labor of thousands of Republican prisoners, whose sentences were reduced in exchange for their work. The architectural ensemble is vast and marked by monumental austerity, designed by Pedro Muguruza and Diego Méndez, with sculptures by Juan de Ávalos. 

What to see at the Valle de los Caídos 

The Valle de Cuelgamuros includes several important architectural and symbolic elements: 

• Basílica de la Santa Cruz: Carved into the rock, it is one of the largest underground churches in the world. Inside lie the remains of more than 33,000 fighters from both sides of the war, and until 2019, also those of Francisco Franco. 

• The monumental cross: At 150 meters tall with 46-meter arms, it is visible from kilometers away. It is the tallest cross in the world and one of the monument’s most iconic features. 

• La Piedad: This sculpture of the Virgin Mary holding her deceased son marks the entrance to the basilica. It is one of the site’s most recognizable artworks. 

• The esplanade and surrounding nature: Set amidst a stunning natural landscape, the site is surrounded by gardens, forests, and walking trails – an ideal place for a peaceful and reflective visit. 

From commemorative site to space for democratic memory 

In recent years, the Valle de los Caídos has undergone a process of historical resignification. The approval of the Ley de Memoria Democrática in 2022 transformed the site into a space to remember all victims of the war and the dictatorship. 

The government has introduced several actions to turn Valle de Cuelgamuros into a center for historical interpretation. These include the name change, Franco’s exhumation in 2019, the ban on Francoist tributes, and the launch of an international competition to define its future museological approach. 

How to get there and when to visit 

The site is located in the municipality of San Lorenzo de El Escorial. It’s about an hour’s drive from Madrid. Entry to the grounds is free, though there is a small fee to visit the interior of the basilica. 

Opening hours are typically from Tuesday to Sunday, with Monday closures for maintenance. It’s best to check the official website or local tourism offices beforehand, as hours may vary due to official ceremonies or restorations. 

Tips for making the most of your visit 

• Plan ahead and avoid midday hours in summer – there’s little shade on the esplanade. 

• Wear comfortable shoes if you plan to explore the nearby trails. 

• Pair your visit with a walk around San Lorenzo de El Escorial, home to the famous monastery and traditional restaurants. 

A cultural experience from the heart of Madrid 

If you’re staying at Gran Hotel Inglés, one of the most iconic historic hotels in Madrid, a visit to the Valle de los Caídos makes for a perfect day trip. Thanks to its location in the Barrio de Las Letras, this five-star hotel offers the perfect combination of luxury, comfort, and access to the region’s cultural landmarks. 

After a day exploring the history and natural beauty of the Madrid mountains, unwind in the hotel’s exclusive wellness space or enjoy gourmet cuisine and signature cocktails at its elegant LobByto. At Gran Hotel Inglés, you’ll find more than just a place to stay – it’s the ideal base to explore the past and present of a city full of surprises. 

Book your stay and combine the living history of the Valle de los Caídos with an unforgettable experience in the heart of Madrid.